Friday, March 27, 2015

Idylle Duet c2011

Idylle Duet by Guerlain: launched in 2011. Created by Thierry Wasser. The inspiration came from Les Nuits d'Ete, an 1841 work by Hector Berlioz.

The duet in question is the marriage of rose and patchouli.


  • Top notes: freesia and peony
  • Middle notes: Bulgarian rose, lily of the valley, jasmine 
  • Base notes: white musk and Indonesian patchouli 

It is available as eau de parfum.

Thursday, March 19, 2015

Thursday, March 12, 2015

ON EBAY!!!! Marechale Extrait c1800s

I believe that Marechale was launched in 1873 and was still being sold in 1888.




Click here to see the auction



Many perfumeries created their own version of a Marechale blend. It was originally created around 1669 as a sachet powder for Madame La Marechale D'Aumont, wife of Antoine, Marshal of France, by a Court parfumer. This sachet powder was created to match the color of her hair and was used to powder her coiffure, it included powdered elecampane root and vetiver (also found in Bouquet du Roi, another Guerlain concoction).

Poudre a la Marechale included: rose, elecampane, vetiver, iris, cloves, violet, orange, lavender, and marjoram.

 Crown Perfumery in England still makes a version and is a classical chypre floral fragrance with notes of bergamot, cardamom, lavender, rose, leather and oakmoss. .


Here is an old 1800's era recipe for Marechale perfume, which may have been similar to Guerlain's.

Marechale Bouquet Perfume

  • Clove oil 10 ml 
  • Sandalwood oil 10 ml 
  • Musk essence 1 oz 
  • Ambergris essence 1 oz 
  • Neroli spirit 2 ozs 
  • Tonka tincture 2 ozs 
  • Vanilla essence 2 ozs 
  • Orris tincture 2 ozs 
  • Vetiver spirit 2 ozs 
  • Rose spirit 4 ozs 
  • Orange flower extrait 4 ozs 

Mix.


Pommade a la marechale c1847

Take 4 lbs prepared and when melted, add 2 lbs pomade a la fleur oranger, 1 lb a l'acacia, 1 lb a la rose, 4 lbs au jasmin. The whole having semi congealed is perfumed with the following:

  • 1 oz essence of bergamot 
  • 4 oz essence of cloves 
  • 1 oz balsam of Peru 
  • 1 drachm essence of sassafras 
  • drachm essence of cinnamon 
  • drachm essence of rhodium 
  • a drop of essential oil of anise 
  • 4 drachms essence of amber and of musk 

Impart a color with one ounce of powder a la vanille and oz of pulverized bergamot peel.

To read more on Marechale, visit this link: http://madameisistoilette.blogspot.com/2012/12/making-brown-hair-powder.html

Tuesday, March 10, 2015

Bouquet du Jardin du Roi c1890

Bouquet du Jardin du Roi by Guerlain: launched around 1828. The name means Bouquet of the King's Garden in French.

So what does it smell like? I have no published notes on this fragrance.

Discontinued, date unknown.


Monday, March 9, 2015

Unter den Linden c1850s

Unter den Linden by Guerlain: launched sometime in the 1850s I believe.

Unter den Linden ("under the linden trees") is a boulevard in the Mitte district of Berlin, the capital of Germany. It is named for its linden (basswood in American English, lime in British English) trees that line the grassed pedestrian mall between two carriageways.

The address reads 15 rue de la Paix, Paris.



So what does it smell like? I have no notes on this composition.




Discontinued, date unknown.

Myrrhe & Delires c2012

Myrrhe & Delires by Guerlain: launched in 2012. Created by Thierry Wasser as part of the  L'Art et la Matiére Collection.


So what does it smell like? It is classified as a woody oriental fragrance for women and men.

  • Top notes are bergamot and grapefruit
  • Middle notes are osmanthus, jasmine, rose and violet leaf
  • Base notes are patchouli, incense, tonka bean, vanilla, myrrh and licorice

Sunday, March 8, 2015

L'Instant d'Un Ete c2006

L'Instant d'Un Ete by Guerlain: launched in 2006.

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral oriental fragrance for women.

  • Top notes: grapefruit, bitter orange
  • Middle notes: magnolia, jasmine, ylang-ylang
  • Base notes: vanilla, benzoin and musk

It is available as eau de toilette.

Friday, March 6, 2015

Le Présentoir à Secrets c2013

Le Présentoir à Secrets - was one of several special presentations created in 2013 to mark the 160th anniversary of the creation of the bee bottle, known as the Abeille flacon.



Guerlain commissioned nine “Maîtres d’art” of the Institut National des Métiers d’Art of France. Giving them full artistic freedom to create whatever they could envision to centre around a one litre bee bottle. The resulting incarnations are truly the epitome of one of a kind masterpieces.

The unique bottles were on display at the Maison Guerlain, 68, Champs-Élysées, from the 10th of December 2013 to the 14th of February 2014 and were showcased in photo and video exhibitions in Guerlain’s Exclusive Line Doors in 2014. They will be sold to help fund the “Maîtres d’art – Students” project, in which master artists pass down rare and exceptional skills to apprentices, overseen by the Institut National des Métiers d’Art (INMA). You can read more about the INMA online.

Ludwig Vogelgesang, Maître d’art – Class of 2010. A cabinet maker  who specialised in the discerning restoration of luxurious antique Art Deco furniture, originally designed by such notables as Ruhlman, Groult, Franck. His exquisite taste and astute style is sought after not only by renowned interior designers, galleries and museums, but by discriminating private collectors as well.

From Guerlain:

“Le Présentoir à Secrets” (“The Display Case with Secrets”) 
This precious cylindrical sculpture unites two luxurious materials: ivory shagreen and brown rosewood. On its façade, the rare wood traces and outlines the honeycombs. A few small and painstakingly sculpted bees act as clever handles for hidden drawers that can be used to hide one’s treasures. Like crowns, two carved friezes adorn the base and top of this delicate piece. The imperial bottle reigns from the top of the case on a radiant shagreen tray.

Saturday, February 28, 2015

ON EBAY!! Vintage 1920s DJEDI Parfum Baccarat Flacon with Box

On ebay this week!! Vintage 1920s Djedi Parfum Extrait in Baccarat crystal bottle with original box. There is about 25% of the original perfume still inside. Base of bottle has the Baccarat acid stamp. Bottle stands 3.5" tall.



Tuesday, February 24, 2015

Idylle Love Blossom c2014

Idylle Love Blossom by Guerlain: launched in 2014. Created by Thierry Wasser. It is a limited edition fragrance found only at exclusive international airports.

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral fragrance for women.
  • Top notes: green leaves, lilac, and honey
  • Middle notes: rose, and jasmine
  • Base notes: musk, and woody notes
It is available as eau de toilette.


Sunday, February 22, 2015

L`Instant Magic Elixir c2009

L`Instant Magic Elixir by Guerlain: launched in 2009.


So what does it smell like? t is classified as a Floral Woody Musk fragrance for women.


  • Top notes: bitter almond
  • Middle notes: orchid
  • Base notes: white musk and Tahitian vanilla
Unfortunately, this fragrance has been discontinued by Guerlain.


.

Wednesday, February 18, 2015

ON EBAY!!! Vintage 1990s Guerlain Perfume Dramming Case

This is only the second known case that I have seen. This is a very rare, Guerlain perfume organ used across the United States in retail stores at some Guerlain perfume counters to dram perfume into mini bottles as a gift with a Guerlain perfume purchase in the early 1990's - 1996 to be exact. Each bottle size is approximately 8 fluid ounces, has a label, and a glass dropper with a rubber top.

 The faux blue leather box (outside measurements are 16 & 1/2 inches wide, 16 & 1/2 inches tall, and a little over 6 & 1/2 inches deep), the interior has an upper row and a lower row for the bottles, the inside back is a plastic mirror that has issues due to perfume being spilled during it's travels. Each bottle is held in place by a metal clamp secured against the back. There are slots for 24 bottles, however only 19 have survived over the years. There is a little dust on the inside due to age. The outside hinges and handle are in working order and in good condition. There are some nicks to the outside box and some of the covering on the outside bottom has worn off. The latches have a key hole, but no keys. Overall excellent condition.

The fragrances are as follows along with the date written on the label which is the date of the scent's creation;
  • Eau de Cologne Imperiale 1853 - 1/2 full
  • Shalimar 1925 - 7/8 full
  • Champs Elysees 1996 - 1/2 full
  • Samsara 1989 - 1/4 full
  • Mitsouko 1919 - 1/5 full
  • Jicky 1989 - almost 1/2 full
  • L'Heure Bleue 1912 - 1/3 full
  • Eau de Fleur de Cedrat 1920 - 1/4 full
  • Eau de Guerlain 1974 - 1/2 full
  • Eau de Cologne du Coq 1894 - over 1/2 full
  • Jardins de Bagatelle 1983 - 1/6 full
  • Vol du Nuit 1933 - 1/2 full
  • Chamade 1969 - 1/5 full
  • Apres L'Ondee 1906 - 1/2 full
  • Nahema 1979 - 1/3 full
  • Parure 1975 - almost 1/6 full
  • Habit Rouge 1965 - over 1/2 full (small chip on opening of bottle)
  • Vetiver 1959 - almost 1/3 full
  • Heritage 1992- 1/3 full (small chip on end of dropper)



Click HERE to view auction

ON EBAY!! Vintage GUERLAIN Extrait L'Heure Bleue 623 Unopened, Sealed Box

Vintage GUERLAIN Extrait L'Heure Bleue 623 Unopened, Sealed Box



Click HERE to view auction

L'Instant de Guerlain c2003

L'Instant de Guerlain by Guerlain: launched in 2003. Created by Maurice Roucel.

So what does it smell like? It is classified as floral oriental fragrance for women.

  • Top notes: mandarin and bergamot
  • Middle notes: magnolia, iris, ylang-ylang, and sambac jasmine
  • Base notes: white honey, amber, vanilla, benzoin, and musk

Monday, February 16, 2015

La Route de la Soie - Limited Editions c1999

In 1999, Guerlain issued Samsara, Champs Elysées, and Shalimar in limited edition boxes and bottles for a new collection called La Roue de la Soie, or the Silk Road.

The Silk Road:


As you can see from the photo below from National Geographic, the Silk Road, or Silk Route, is a series of trade and cultural transmission routes that were central to cultural interaction through regions of the Asian continent connecting the West and East by linking traders, merchants, pilgrims, monks, soldiers, nomads, and urban dwellers from China and India to the Mediterranean Sea during various periods of time



Extending 4,000 miles (6,437 kilometres), the Silk Road derives its name from the lucrative trade in Chinese silk carried out along its length, beginning during the Han dynasty (206 BC – 220 AD). The Central Asian sections of the trade routes were expanded around 114 BC by the Han dynasty, largely through the missions and explorations of Chinese imperial envoy, Zhang Qian. The Chinese took great interest in the safety of their trade products and extended the Great Wall of China to ensure the protection of the trade route.

Trade on the Silk Road was a significant factor in the development of the civilizations of China, the Indian subcontinent, Persia, Europe, and Arabia, opening long-distance, political and economic interactions between the civilizations. Though silk was certainly the major trade item from China, many other goods were traded, and religions, syncretic philosophies, and various technologies, as well as diseases, also travelled along the Silk Routes. In addition to economic trade, the Silk Road served as a means of carrying out cultural trade among the civilizations along its network.

The main traders during antiquity were the Chinese, Persians, Greeks, Syrians, Romans, Armenians, Indians, and Bactrians, and from the 5th to the 8th century the Sogdians. During the coming of age of Islam, Arab traders became prominent.

The Venetian explorer Marco Polo became one of the first Europeans to travel the Silk Road to China, and his tales, documented in The Travels of Marco Polo, opened Western eyes to some of the customs of the Far East. He was not the first to bring back stories, but he was one of the most widely read.

A route for caravans, the northern Silk Road brought to China many goods such as "dates, saffron powder and pistachio nuts from Persia; frankincense, aloes and myrrh from Somalia; sandalwood from India; glass bottles from Egypt, and other expensive and desirable goods from other parts of the world." In exchange, the caravans sent back bolts of silk brocade, lacquer ware, and porcelain.

In June 2014, UNESCO designated the Chang'an-Tianshan corridor of the Silk Road as a World Heritage Site.

The Limited Edition Bottles


The eau de parfum bottle for Samsara was the usual Samsara flacon, but it had a gilded map design on the front, highlighting the various cities from the Silk Road. The mini flacon was simply the usual Samsara flacon but was housed in a special presentation box printed with the map theme.

Samsara was released in the following:

  • 50ml Eau de Toilette mini in a decorative box
  • 50 ml Eau de Parfum in decorative bottle
  • 30ml Scented Dew Roll On

Samsara's composition:

  • Top notes: bergamot, lemon, ylang-ylang, peach and green notes
  • Middle notes: jasmine, iris, narcissus, violet and rose
  • Base notes: sandalwood, vanilla, Tonka bean, amber, and musk




The mini flacon was simply the usual Shalimar flacon but was housed in a special presentation box printed with a black floral pattern.


Shalimar was released in the following:

  • Eau de Toilette  mini in a decorative box
  • 50 ml Eau de Parfum 

Shalimar's composition:
  • Top notes: bergamot, lemon, mandarin, rosewood
  • Heart notes: rose, jasmine, orris, vetiver, patchouli
  • Base notes: ambergris, opoponax, vanilla, civet, Peru balsam, benzoin, Tonka bean, leather





Today, the name La Roue de la Soie is used for a perfumed candle sold by Guerlain, is directly inspired by the scent of Samsara.

Silk Road info from wikipedia.

Sunday, February 15, 2015

Stalizia Grandiflora c1886

Stalizia Grandiflora by Guerlain: launched in 1886. Created by Aime Guerlain. It appears to be a scientific name for a flowering plant.

So what does it smell like? I have no published notes on this composition.

Discontinued, date unknown.