Monday, August 17, 2015

Flacon L'Urne Antique c1830

1830 Guerlain perfume bottle and stopper, used for various scents, clear glass, molded address label., edge chipping on stopper plug. Bottle stands 4" tall.

Tuesday, August 11, 2015

Faked Guerlain Perfume Bottle

I wanted to bring to your attention, a cleverly crafted fake Guerlain perfume bottle. While this may simply have been crafted by a hobbyist for their own benefit, it undoubtedly made it's way into the open market and was being offered for sale. A suspecting buyer had asked some questions to some of use on the IPBA members facebook group and we all chimed in with our opinions.

I for one immediately dismissed this as a fake bottle based on the sloppy baudruchage, the weird "label", the stopper, the overall look of the piece as a whole, as well as my own extensive knowledge on Guerlain's perfume bottles.

Let's talk about the baudruchage for a moment. On this bottle with see gold and white cotton baker's twine and red and gold sealing wax used to decoratively seal the bottle. We know that Guerlain did not use this sort of baudruchage cording - nor this type of sloppy sealing wax. Guerlain uses only the finest silk threads to finish the barbichage (bearding the silk threads), brossage (brushing the yarn into place), wax seal and signature Guerlain stamp - an art of bottling that the Dames de table craftswomen pass down from generation to generation, just like guildsmen.

The photos below illustrate the care that goes into Guerlain's baudruchage.

Ok, now back to the fake perfume bottle...the stopper. The stopper appears to be metal and embossed with an Art Nouveau floral pattern. While it is very pretty - Guerlain did not use this type of stopper.

The bottle shape itself. While the shape is similar to a bottle by Guerlain called the Flacon de Guerre (the wartime bottle), it is not exactly the same. The fake bottle features sharply sloping shoulders, while the flacon de guerre's shoulders have slight sloping and a ridge around the short neck of the bottle. Also the

Now let's get onto the label of the fake bottle. It does not follow any known form of an authentic Guerlain label. It is however most likely a header from a letter, advertisement, receipt or other sort of document. It is also from the 19th century as evidenced by the wording: "Guerlain Parfumeur Brevete de S.M. L'Imperatrice Des Cours de Russie, d`Allemagne et d 'Angleterre Paris Rue de la Paix ,15."

Please see the image below of an authentic Guerlain document:

Monday, August 10, 2015

Veritable Moelle de Boeuf

To condition the hair, Guerlain created the Veritable Moelle de Boeuf, a pomade made up of beef marrow to promote hair growth.

"True Beef Marrow " porcelain cosmetic box decorated with grisaille representing oxen and golden highlights.  Diameter: 6.8 cm. 

Thursday, August 6, 2015

$80,000 For Shalimar - Are You Kidding?

Ok, some ebayer has gone off the deep end here. They are asking $80,000 for this bottle of Shalimar Eau de Cologne, with the No. 90 label. A one litre Montre flacon.

Click here to see the auction

Wednesday, August 5, 2015

This Weeks Guerlain Rarities on Ebay


Guerlain Heritage Case from 2008.  For its 180th anniversary in 2008 Guerlain issued a luxurious leather coffret called the Guerlain Heritage Case containing a collection of 18 of the house's fragrances best representing its perfume history since 1828. Only 205 copies were made. The labels on the bottles are inspired by historic Guerlain labels from the Art Deco period.  This has the authentication papers and is numbered at 186/205.

"A precious and elegant leather showcase that opens to reveal 18 iconic fragrances. From Eau de Cologne Impériale, composed for Empress Eugénie in 1853, to Guerlain's newest scent, Cruel Gardénia, created in 2008. This case is a vision of elegance, a symbol of rare and refined luxury and a prestigious gift to celebrate a unique fragrance heritage."

The Guerlain collectors set includes 18 of the best fragrances released by the firm since its founding, including: 
1853 Eau de Cologne Imperiale. 
1889 Jicky. 
1912 L’Heure Bleue. 
1919 Mitsouko. 
1925 Shalimar. 
1959 Vetiver. 
1965 Habit Rouge. 
1979 Nahema. 
1989 Samsara. 
2003 L’Instant de Guerlain. 
2004 L’Instant de Guerlain pour Homme. 
2005 Rose Barbare. 
2005 Angelique Noire. 
2005 Cuir Beluga. 
2006 Bois d’Armenie. 
2006 Insolence. 
2007 Iris Ganache. 
2008 Cruel Gardenia.

Click here to see the auction

Lavande Parfum in Quadrilobe flacon in it's original box. c1920. 
So what does it smell like? It is classified as a classic fougere or chypre fragrance with a strong lavender note. 
Top notes: lemon, bergamot 
Middle notes: lavender, galbanum 
Base notes: labdanum, amber, sandalwood, oakmoss and vetiver

Click here to see the auction

A Travers Champs Parfum in Quadrilobe Flacon. c1940s. 
So what does it smell like? It is classified as a powdery floral amber fragrance for women based on flowers of the fields. 
Top notes: lily of the valley, violet, bergamot, petitgrain 
Middle notes: rose, orris, carnation, ylang ylang, sandalwood, clove, patchouli, benzoin 
Base notes: orris, vanilla, suede 

Click here to see the auction

Bouquet de Faunes Lalique Flacon c1920s.

Click here to see the auction

Limited Edition Muguet 1999, Guerlain 75 ml Eau de Toilette. 
So what does it smell like? It is a crisp green floral fragrance with a dominant fresh lily of the valley note.
Top notes: lemon, bergamot, lily of the valley
Middle notes: jasmine, Turkish rose, lily and carnation
Base notes: patchouli, oakmoss, leather, sandalwood

Click here to see the auction

Apres l'Ondee 30ml Parfum in Louis XVI flacon.
So what does it smell like? It is classified as a powdery floral fragrance for women with spicy and musk notes.
Top notes: rosemary, hawthorn, bergamot, lavender,
Middle notes:  jasmine, lily, orchid, orange blossom, violet, bouvardia
Base notes: orris and Tonkin musk

Click here to see the auction

Mouchoir de Monsieur in Quadrilobe flacon with wartime label.  

Click here to see the auction

Parure Eau de Cologne mini Bottle. c1970s.

Click here to see the auction

Elixir de Guerlain Antiseptic Dentifrice, mouthwash in 1 litre bee bottle...unusual...

Click here to see the auction

L'Heure Bleue 2/3 oz Parfum in Bouchon Coeur flacon. Sealed in original packaging, nice price!

Click here to see the auction

Mitsouko 7.5ml Parfum in Enameled Canister, from 1991. Quite rare!

Click here to see the auction

Wednesday, July 29, 2015

Flacon Carré Plat Ruspini c1830

Ruspini's Elixir for the Teeth and Gums by Guerlain: launched about 1880. It was housed in the  The elixir was supposedly a cure for toothaches.

Glass bottle held a mouthwash originally created by surgeon dentist to King George IV, the Chevalier Ruspini.

Sunday, July 26, 2015

Magnum Import Perfume Bottles

The Magnum Import Company was an importer from New York who repackaged French perfumes for sale to the American market during the early 1920s.

You can find Magnum bottles with name of Caron, Guerlain, Coty, Grenoville, Rosine, D'Orsay, Roger et Gallet, Houbigant, Dedon

Magnum was wholly independent from these companies.

Saturday, July 25, 2015

Vintage 1960s Counter Top Lucite Perfume Tester Rack

The display case is made of black and clear lucite. It measures 9" across,  2 3/4" high and 2 1/2" deep.

 It holds six perfume bottles, each 2 1/2" high. The back of the case is removable to gain access to the bottles. The bottles are glass with long glass daubers. The black screw on tops are black plastic. The white paper labels have the name of the fragrance and "TEST SAMPLE  NOT TO BE SOLD". Also on the label is the red Marly horse logo.

Two of the bottles contain Mitsouko, created in 1919. The others are: Chant d'Aromes (1962), L'Heure Bleue (1912), Vol de Nuit (1933) and Shalimar (1925).

Photos by ebay seller thingsnstrings

Wednesday, July 22, 2015

L'Heure Bleue Lotion Vegetale in Bee Bottle

Here is a rarity, L'Heure Bleue Lotion Vegetale in a bee bottle. Bottle stands 7.87" which means this is a 500cc/500 ml/16.9 oz size.

First used in  1947, the stopper, which the seller says is frozen in place, leads me to believe that it is ground glass and not covered with plastimeri.

Monday, July 13, 2015

Guerlain's Advice for Ladies c1902

Country Life, 1902:
"M. Guerlain who is an authority on all matters relating the uses and abuses of scents says that it is the greatest to imagine that sachet powder perfumes. According to him, the only pleasant way of perfuming "laces, linen and ladies" is with an extract and a vaporiser; nothing else is of any real use. It is also a mistake to adopt one perfume alone, for it is essential not only to vary one's perfume with the seasons, but for every occasion. We do not wear the same dress in the evening as in the morning, in a motor-car, or in the saddle, and a moment's reflection will show that the scent that is agreeable in the open air can be offensive at a dinner-table. If we once study this question, as it should be studied by all women of refined taste, we shall find that we cannot do better than follow the Parisienne, who never favours what are called extracts of flowers - carnation, lilac, mignonette, etc. She has learnt that the majority of these scents are made from petroleum or terpinol, and have nothing in common with the names they bear. Let us follow her in her selection for spring. She chooses "Tsao Ko" or "Zicky" [sic] for her perfume for her morning ride in the Bois "Fleur Qui Meurt" for a dinner party, and "Jardin de Mon Curé" for the Opera. If you are passing through the Rue de la Paix, call in at Guerlain's and judge how exquisite is her taste." 

Saturday, July 11, 2015

La Petite Robe Noire Eau de Toilette c2012

La Petite Robe Noire Eau de Toilette by Guerlain: launched in 2012.

From Guerlain:
"I am absolutely essential and utterly irresistible. I am the chic and very glamorous perfumed creation by Guerlain. My fragrance is a fresh and swirling floral lace, embroidered with sparkling fruity notes. My glass showcase is the legendary "heart-shaped" bottle, which has been boldly reinterpreted with a modern touch. Its crystalline transparency, tinged with a delicate, powdery pink, reveals a silhouette of my sophisticated little strapless dress, ready to dance! 

Monday, June 29, 2015

Flacon Goutte (Teardrop) c1923-2001

Flacon Goutte (Teardrop) c1923-2001

Bottle created by Pochet et du Courval to hold eaux de toilette only. Bottle also made by different manufacturers over the years. Created as the standard Eau de Toilette presentation. The frosted glass stopper is made of two cockle shells; the label depicts two dolphins known as ‘Etiquette Dauphin’. “Toilet water in an oval bottle with atomizer top is new, $5.” ( 1939) “Guerlain now has a $5 size of toilet water in all the popular fragrances such as Shalimar, L’Heure Bleue, Vol de Nuit, Coque D’Or, Liu, Mitsouko, Sous Le Vent and Jicky.” (1940, Drug and Cosmetic Industry, Volume 46)

This bottle held over 30 different perfumes, some are:
  • Shalimar 
  • Jicky 
  • Vol de Nuit 
  • Chant D'Aromes 
  • Jasmin 
  • Mitsouko 
  • Liu 
  • Vol de Nuit 
  • Chamade 
  • L'Heure Bleue 
  • Fleur de Feu 
  • Rue de la Paix 
  • Lavande 
  • Parure 
  • Coque D'Or 
  • Vega 
  • Sous Le Vent 
  • Champs Elysees 
  • Fol Arome 
  • Dawamesk 
  • Cuir de Russie 
  • Habit Rouge 
  • Candide Effluve 
  • A Travers Champs 
  • Cachet Jaune 
  • Vetiver
  • Bouquet de Faunes
  • Vague Souvenir 
  • Apres L'Ondee 
  • Esprit de Fleurs Nouvelles 
  • Lilas 
  • Muguet
  • Gardenia
  • Djedi
  • Pois de Senteur
  • Pour Troubler?
  • Atuana?
  • Fleur de Feu?
  • Chypre?
  • Quand Vient L'Ete?
  • Mouchoir de Monsieur?

Different manufacturers:
  • 50cc/50ml/1.7 oz - 8 to 9cm/3.15" to 3.54" (1973) replaced by 50ml - 8.9 cm (1983-1988) 
  • 100cc/100ml/3.4 oz - 12 to 13cm/4.72" to 5.12" (1938) replaced by 100ml - 12.5 cm (1983-1994) 
  • 250cc/250ml/8.4 oz - 16 to 17cm/6.3" to 6.69" (1923) replaced by 250ml - 16.8 cm (1983-1995) 
  • 500cc/500ml/16.9 oz - 20 to 21cm/7.87" to 8.27" (1923-2001) 
  • 1 liter - 25 to 26cm/9.84" to 10.24" (1923-1999) 

  • 1923-1973: ground glass 
  • 1973-1980: glass with plastic dowel 
  • 1980-1987: gilded glass with screw on plastic dowel 
  • 1987-2002: glass with plastic dowel 
  • 1923-1979: newsprint dolphin label 
  • 1980-1987: Black and gold oval label 
  • 1987-2001: no label, silk screened serigraphy on bottle instead

Tuesday, June 23, 2015

Shalimar Presentation Box with Cosmetics c1925

"Shalimar" - (1925) Very rare and important rectangular poplar wood box wrapped in emerald green morocco leather, decorated with gilded arabesques, used to protect a Baccarat crystal sample vial of "Shalimar", a powder box of  "Poudre C'est Moi" and a Bakelite "Rouge d'Enfer" lipstick case with trimmings. Interior satin lined box. D: 18, 5 x 28, 5cm.

Sunday, June 14, 2015

Ma Petite Robe Noire c2012

For Christmas 2012, Guerlain launched a pretty little trio of options for La Petite Robe Noire, which was freshly reworked that year. Three alternative “little black dresses” are featured on limited-edition bottles, named "Ma Petite Robe Noire."

You were able to choose which of the three dresses matched your or your gift recipient’s taste and have the bottle calligraphed with your name, initials or a secret message.

Friday, June 5, 2015

Agates Face Powder c1973

Before Guerlain released it's iconic Meteorites face powder pearls in 1987, they had introduced a precursor called Agates in 1973. The powder was so named for its beautiful box, which was inspired by Marie Antoinette's box covered in agates.

The box style was later used for the Meteorites packaging in 1987.

Monday, June 1, 2015

ON EBAY!!! Candide Effluve 2007 Reissue in Brun Flume Flacon

ON EBAY!!! Candide Effluve 2007 Reissue in Brun Flume Flacon

Click here to see the auction

Candide Effluve was reissued in in 2007 as a limited edition in its historical bottle, the Brun Fume Baccarat crystal bottle. There are only 97 numbered bottles, which had a single production run in 1933, which were brought from the archives. The number engraved on each bottle is also rare and original. The bottle is housed inside of a velvet lined, lacquered presentation box. The reissue retailed for $2,600.

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral oriental fragrance for women.
  • Top notes: bergamot, lemon, ylang-ylang, lilac, angelica, thyme
  • Middle notes: muguet, styrax, hyacinth, rose, jasmine, iris, heliotrope , myrrh
  • Base notes: amber, sandalwood, leather, orris, patchouli, vetiver, benzoin, tonka bean and vanilla.

Mon Exclusif c2015

Mon Exclusif by Guerlain: launched in 2015. Created by Thierry Wasser.

To make a customized fragrance more accessible to those without unlimited purse strings, Guerlain has introduced Mon Exclusif, a fragrance that you can rename yourself.

Friday, May 8, 2015