Monday, April 21, 2014

Robertet Factory Version of Guerlain's Mitsouko

Here is a vintage 1940s-1960s bottle (in a sealed box) of the Robertet Perfume Factory's version of Guerlain's famous Mitsouko perfume, found in an ebay auction. Robertet is a well known perfumery materials and flavor company going back to the mid 1800s. They sold versions of famous perfumes in the gift shop at their factory.

Please understand that this perfume was not made by Guerlain, but by the talented perfumers at Robertet. There is lots of info on Robertet on the internet so I won't post that here.

Friday, April 4, 2014

Santal c1878

Santal by Guerlain: launched in 1878.

So what does it smell like? It was a sandalwood perfume.

  • Top notes:
  • Middle notes:
  • Base notes: sandalwood

Presented in the carre flacon.

Discontinued, date unknown. Still being sold in 1914.

Petit Guerlain c2014

Petit Guerlain by Guerlain: reformulated by Thierry Wasser due to restrictions placed on the original's ingredients and relaunched in 2014.

So what does it smell like? This eau de toilette is a reformulated version of the original Petit Guerlain children's fragrance from 1994.

  • Top notes: orange blossom, anise and green notes
  • Middle notes: mimosa, honey
  • Base notes: pistachio accord and white musk


Available in 250ml white bee flacons, the girl's bottles will be trimmed with a decorative baby pink ribbon and label, while the boy's bottle will be trimmed with a baby blue ribbon and label. Small purse bottles will also be available for sale. This fragrance is only available at the flagship store of Maison Guerlain and retails for 250€ and in Harrod's for £215.

Original Petit Guerlain Composition:

  • Top notes: bergamot, orange, lemon
  • Middle notes: lavender, mimosa, jasmine, rose
  • Base notes: vanilla, tonka
The original version was available in eau de toilette as well as an alcohol-free version, Eau de Senteur.

Friday, March 28, 2014

Flacon Louis XVI c1902-2002

Flacon Louis XVI c1902-2002

Flacon created by Pochet et du Courval to hold extraits of Apres L'Ondee, Muguet, Mouchoir de Monsieur, Violette a deux Sous, Aux Bon Vieux Temps, Sillage, Avril en Fleurs, Ai Loe and others. Flacon has also been used for special limited editions such as Chamade. The original box is white, cylindrically shaped and has Guerlain Paris in gold leaf.

  • 30cc/30ml/1 oz - 9cm/3.54" (1924) amended 30ml/1 oz (1983-2002)
  • 40cc/40ml/1.35 oz - 9cm/3.54" (1950-1959)
  • 75cc/75ml/2.5 oz - 11.3cm/4.45" (1971)
  • 80cc/80ml/2.7 oz - 11.3cm/4.45" (1902-1962)
  • 125cc/125ml/4.2 oz - 12.8cm/5.04" (1903-1965)
  • 250cc/250ml/8.4 oz - 16.4cm/6.46" (1904-1959)
  • 500cc/500ml/16.9 oz - 21.5cm/8.46" (1907-1959)
  • 1 liter/1000ml- 25.5cm/10.04" (1920-1959)

Monday, March 24, 2014

Eau de Colombes c1928

Eau de Colombes by Guerlain: launched in 1928.

En Pleine Sève c1928

En Pleine Sève by Guerlain: launched in 1928. The name means "Full of Sap". This was the name for perfume and soap.

Wednesday, February 26, 2014

Guerlain Film Spray

Guerlain's Film Spray Body Lotion was a scented, pink, light moisturizing body lotion in spray form created in 1966 and sold until 1975. It was available in the following standard Guerlain scents: Shalimar, L'Heure Bleue, Jicky, Mitsouko and Chant D'Aromes.

Wednesday, February 19, 2014

On Ebay - Vol de Nuit in Flacon Guerre

On ebay this week- Vol de Nuit in the Flacon Guerre. It holds 10cc/10ml/0.388 oz and was used from 1938-1945. This is the smallest size used for this bottle.

photo by ebay seller chris022381

Flacon de Guerre (War Time Edition) c1938-1945

Pochet et du Courval created this bottle to house extraits of Shalimar,Vol de Nuit, Jicky, Vega, Guerlinade, Fleur de Feu, Mitsouko, L'Heure Bleue, Tsao-Ko, Coque D'Or, Gavotte, Lilas, Liu, Verveine and others.

  • 10cc/10ml/0.388 oz (1939-1945) 
  • 20cc/20ml/0.676 oz (1939-1945) 
  • 30cc/30ml/1 oz (1938-1945) 
  • 40cc/40ml/1.35 oz (1938-1945) 
  • 82cc/82ml/2.77 oz - 10,3cm/4.06" (1938-1945) 
  • 125cc/125ml/4.2 oz (1938-1945) 
  • 250cc/250ml/8.4 oz (1938-1945) 
  • 500cc/500ml/16.9 oz (1938-1945)

Monday, February 17, 2014

Double Extrait d'Acacia c1914

This is a super rare perfume this is the first time I have seen this particular perfume from Guerlain, though the bottle design known as the Flacon Carre, dates from 1879 onwards and was made by Pochet et du Courval, this bottle actually dates to after 1914 based on the label bearing the 68, Champs-Elysees Paris for the Guerlain boutique, prior to this move, older labels are marked with 15, Rue de la Paix.

photo by Dana

So what does it smell like? Well it is a perfume based on cassie.

Cassell's Household Guide of 1869 explains it thus:

Chamber's Journal from 1903 explains it thus:

Any time you see a perfume that is labeled "Double" or "Triple" it means that it is either "double strength" or "triple strength." See below how the process is done, from Fenner's Complete Formulary, 1888.

A recipe to make this perfume was found in the 1877 book Perfumery and Kindred Arts: A Comprehensive Treatise on Perfumery by Richard S. Cristiani.

Extrait d'Acacia (Cassie)

  • 2 pints extract of cassie, No 1
  • 3/4 pints extract of jasmine No 1
  • 1/2  pints extract of tuberose No 1
  • 2 ounces tincture of ambergris 
  • 8 ounces orange flower water (double strength)

Cassie is not a favorite perfume by itself but combined as above is much liked. 

Thursday, February 13, 2014

Guerlain Counter Perfume Tester Bottles c1950s

Countertop perfume atomizers/testers, cylindrical, clear flacons, black labels, gilt metal hardware systems and yellow atomizer bulbs, each with their box. High: 8CM. Fragrances: Shalimar, L'Heure Bleue, Vol de Nuit, Liu, Sous le Vent,  Ode, Jicky and Mitsouko.

Thursday, January 30, 2014

Insolence Crazy Touch c2014 Limited Edition Flacon

Insolence Crazy Touch by Guerlain: launched in 2014. This is a limited edition collector's bottle. The juice is the same formula as the usual Insolence eau de toilette.

"This year, the Insolence bottle flaunts an extravagant look. A whirlwind of bold and exuberant pink spots. For a delicious and daring limited edition."

It is available as:

  • 50ml eau de toilette 

Wednesday, January 29, 2014

La Petite Robe Noire Couture by Guerlain c2014

La Petite Robe Noire Couture by Guerlain: launched in 2014 as a new flanker to the La Petite Robe Noire perfume line. It was created by Thierry Wasser. This glamorous new fragrance is conceived as red carpet ready and with an overdose of sophisticated chypre.

"I am absolutely essential and utterly irresistible. I am the chic and very glamorous perfumed creation by Guerlain. 
My new olfactory variation, Eau de Parfum Couture, takes the form of a stunning long dress sewn with fresh floral notes and top-stitched with ultra-refined woody notes. A fascinating interpretation in which cheerful raspberry, a shower of petals and wood are sure to make heads spin and fulfill every desire…"

So what does it smell like? It is sparkling perfume, with a raspberry note laid upon a chypre accord.

  • Top notes: bergamot and raspberry
  • Middle notes: rose
  • Base notes: patchouli, vetiver, tonka bean and moss.

Housed in the modified Bouchon Coeur bottle, the graphic on the front of the bottle for this edition shows an elegant evening dress.

Available as:

  • 50ml Eau de Parfum

Aqua Allegoria Limon Verde c2014

Aqua Allegoria Limon Verde by Guerlain: launched in 2014. Created by Thierry Wasser.

"Savour a Caipirinha under the lemon trees along the Amazon River. 
Limon Verde is a dancing tropical fragrance. A feeling of freshness highlighted by sparkling accents. 
Its pure and refined bottle with a golden mesh is a nod to the celebrated Bee Bottle."

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a Citrus Aromatic fragrance for women and men.

  • Top note: lime
  • Middle notes: green notes, tropical fruit, fig and sugar cane
  • Base note: tonka bean
Available as:
  • 75 ml Eau de Toilette
  • 125 ml Eau de Toilette

Thursday, January 16, 2014

Ebay Find! Vintage c1930s L'Heure Bleue Tester Flacon

Ebay Find! Vintage c1930s L'Heure Bleue Tester Flacon

photos from ebay seller heartlandtextiles

Read more about these tester bottles here:

Tuesday, January 14, 2014

Ebay Find! La Poudre C'est Moi

Ebay Find! La Poudre C'est Moi face powder in Rose Doree shade.

photo from ebay seller ldickerson52

Read more about La Poudre C'est Moi here:

Sunday, January 12, 2014

Where Should I Apply Perfumes

As a general rule, fragrance should be applied to pulse points. This is where the blood vessels are closest to the skin giving off more heat and acting like mini fragrance pumps.

Pulse points are the wrist, crook of the arm and back of the knee, and the base of the throat. Also, for long lasting fragrance spray at the ankles, it allows the fragrance to blossom up. For a sexy twist, apply perfume to your cleavage or spray perfume on your nude body before dressing. The nape of the neck, is a very romantic area, whenever your hair moves it might swish the perfume around, nice little subtle trail of perfumed loveliness.

Apply perfume right after you take a shower or bath. Your pores are more open then and will more easily soak up the scent. Some people say that rubbing the wrists together will crush the scent, I tried this with different perfumes over the course of two weeks, just to see if its true, it seemed to me that the friction of rubbing the wrists together actually heated up the fragrances and made them seem more potent.

I have read though that the perfume can react not so nicely to the first layer of skin...and give off a smell that isn't pleasant. Others say that to spray the perfume in the air and then walk into it, I have done this before, and it seems that it lets you control the amount of fragrance that is applied to your skin, rather than spraying directly onto the skin, this works best with heavier perfumes.

I spray perfumes on my clothes when I want to make the scent last longer, I won't spray perfume on fragile fabrics like silks or lace. You can spray your coat with perfume. Also an old tip is to apply pure parfum extrait to your furs. Doing this is up to your own discretion.

Do not apply perfume after you put your jewelry on, take it off first, then apply the perfume. The chemicals in perfume can leave stains or have chemical reactions to the metals, Pearls are especially susceptible to damage from perfume since it destroys their lustre.

Coco Chanel always said to apply perfume where you want to be kissed. I read an old perfume guide from the 1930s and it mentioned that you can apply perfume to your fingertips and eyebrows. Also apply perfume to a cotton ball and tuck it into your brassiere. Apply perfume to your hankies or gloves.

Jeanne Lanvin of Lanvin Perfumes suggested that you should apply perfume wherever your clothes cover your body, that way it will seem if it is coming from within and blend with the natural oils of your skin to make a truly individual fragrance. She also says the best time to apply perfume is 15 or 20 minutes before you are about to go out, that way the perfume has time to "set".

A 1924 ad for Ann Haviland perfumes suggests:

#1. to apply perfume to your eyebrows as the short hairs of the eyebrows retain the perfume longer than the skin since evaporation takes place more slowly.Besides, this is an ideal two-some,the girl usually comes up to a man's chin, not far below his nose.

#2. One little known method of applying perfume is to saturate a piece of cotton with your chosen scent, place it under the shoulder strap of your slip. Body heat releases an aura about you.

#3. A glamorous method of using perfume is to spray it on the hem of your evening gown, then as you walk or dance, the fragrance is wafted into the air around you. This is the best way to do it.

#4. Another pointer is to apply perfume to the inside of your gloves, while your gloves are on, the warmth of your hands attract the perfume which will cling to the fingers.

Friday, January 10, 2014

Visage de Nuée Face Powder c1945

In 1945, Guerlain introduced it's "Visage de Nuée" (Face Cloud) face powder.  This lattice design shown on the boxes was imitating limed wood and was also popular on the perfume presentation boxes for Coque D'Or, Dawamesk and Kriss.

The powder was available in the following shades:

  • Rose Thé
  • Aurore
  • Créole
  • Marocaine
  • Engadine
  • Plein Air

Visage de Nuée powder box in the Marocaine shade, photo by ebay seller antiquecollectibles1900.



c1954 ad

Jicky in Argentina

Here is a carre flacon for Jicky, the old foil label is marked "Extrait Jicky" and "Industria Argentina" at the top of the label, as you can see, the label is in very bad shape. The base of the bottle is embossed with Guerlain France Paris and the one side has the Woman with Flags logo. The bottle is 4.0" approx. tall.

This finished product was produced in Argentina with Guerlain's imported French concentrated extracts for the South American market.

photo by ebay seller other-time

Thursday, January 9, 2014

Ebay Find! Oeillet 000 in Carre Flacon c1800s

Ebay Find! Oeillet 000 in Carre Flacon c1800s

Oeillet 000, created in the 1800s. This perfume is also known as Triple Extract of Carnation. The 000 after the name means that this is a triple-strength floral extract.

photo by ebay seller voldenuit2

Ebay Find - Liu in Mystery Bottle!!


I have never seen this flacon used by Guerlain...ever....I am suspect of this flacon and even more so by the condition of the tax stamp on the base of the bottle. It looks as if it was wet and loosened from another bottle and affixed onto this one. The condition of the tax stamp should be near pristine as the rest of the bottle, the labels and the box. This bothers me.

Also, I believe that two labels were removed from two genuine Liu flacons and affixed to this bottle and box. A genuine Guerlain baudruchage was removed from a bottle and added to this bottle to "complete" it.  Look at the bottom edges of the label on the bottle, see how they have been dog eared?

I know that Guerlain did use different flacons over the years due to wartime shortages and special editions, but can someone please explain this one? Is it really a genuine Guerlain bottle and presentation or is it a cleverly made fake? I think the latter. I do not propose that the current seller did this, as he has had several genuine flacons over the years. I believe he may have purchased this from an unscrupulous seller at one time and himself was duped into believing that this is a rare example. Let me know  your thoughts.

Could this be the smaller limited edition Flacon Plat by Pochet et du Courval in 1929???...

Flacon Plat (Flat) c1910-1959

Limited edition flacons created by Baccarat and Pochet et du Courval. Housed various Guerlain fragrances such as Kadine, Djedi and L'Heure Bleue.


  • 40cc/40ml/1.35 oz - 7.7cm/3.03" (limited edition of only 500 in 1916) 
  • 80cc/80ml/2.7 oz - (limited edition of only 500 in 1916) 

Pochet et du Courval:

  • 20ml/0.676 oz - 5.5cm/2.17" (1929)

now this is what the Liu flacon should look from Quirky Finds